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SOMERSET
HOUSE - ESSENTIAL VIEWING
Review by Erik Hendry
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Aerial view of Somerset House
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Once the home of records of births,
deaths and marriages and the headquarters of the Inland Revenue,
the Somerset House Trust has now put in place a truly adventurous
opening up of the building and its immediate environs. Public access
to and enjoyment of the building has never been so extensive.
But first a little background information.
Somerset House was designed by Sir William
Chambers and built between 1776-1801 to house government departments
and especially those occupied by the Navy. Various learned societies
and government tax offices were present from the outset.
Built around a large quadrangle, Somerset House had direct
access to the Thames and a separate entrance for the principal occupants.
It was and remains one of the neo-classical architectural gems of
London. All the more reason why its pleasures should now be so accessible.
These pleasures originally included strolling on the River Terrace
an Sundays and visiting the Navy Model Room which held models of
every new ship built for the Navy, an institution which was at the
heart of eighteenth century public and political life. To these
innocent distractions can now be added access to the South Building,
Embankment Building, River Terrace and Courtyard as described below.
THE COURTYARD
Formerly the Inland Revenue car park, The Courtyard has now become
an area of 3,700 square metres of tranquility and open air seating
with access to all of the buildings and events making up Somerset
House. From time to time, The Courtyard will be transformed into
an open air venue for theatre and other performing arts. A series
of 55 fountains is now installed in The Courtyard. These are lit
by fibre optic lighting, can be choreographed and can play to a
height of three metres.
THE RIVER TERRACE
Opened once again to the public who can enjoy the marvellous views
of the Thames while entering Somerset House from this side or dining
al fresco at the café. The River Terrace is restored to its original
state with York stone paving and gravel but has new access to Waterloo
Bridge via a steel and glass bridge. As in days of yore this remains
a most suitable place simply to walk up and down on Sundays or any
other day.
ROYAL NAVY
Somerset House originally fronted onto the Thames until marooned
by the building of the Victoria Embankment. The King's Barge House
lost its prime function at that time but has now been restored to
accommodate part of the Gilbert Collection of Decorative Arts. The
Great Arch, formerly Somerset House's river access, has been restored
to house the Admiralty Barge, an 18th Century barge used by the
Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty. The Seamen's Waiting Hall
is part of the revitalised walk from Waterloo Bridge to the Strand,
being between the River Terrace and the Courtyard. It was formerly
where naval captains waited to obtain their commissions. A new use
will be as a place to display models of warships ands naval portraits.
ART GALLERIES
The Courtauld Institute Gallery is already a very well known occupant
of Somerset House and has increased its presence by opening a new
department of digital and video art in the South Building. The Gilbert
Collection of decorative arts on three levels, one in the South
Building and two overlooking the Thames in the Embankment Building,
which with its vaulted roof, is ideal for the purpose. On 25 November,
the Hermitage Rooms will open with an inaugral exhibition entitled
'Treasures of Catherine the Great'. The décor of the Hermitage
Rooms will recreate, in minature, the imperial splendour of the
Winter Palace and its various wings which now make up the State
Museum in St. Petersburg.
THE NELSON STAIR
Situated in the South Building, the Nelson Stair is one of the greatest
achievements of Sir William Chambers. It occupies an oval well which
is lit from above, the stairs and cantlevered landings clinging
to the walls. The stair is a work of art in itself and leads the
visitor to further works of art in the Courtauld Gallery's collection
of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist paintings, prints and drawings
on the third floor of the South Building.
THE GILBERT COLLECTION AT
SOMERSET HOUSE
Review by Erik Hendry
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Silver, silver-gilt and gold enamel ship
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Sir Arthur Gilbert, who established the
collection with his late wife, Rosalinde, began by collecting silver
because he admired the craftsmanship of the pieces he bought. As he
says "I sought only those objects of great beauty, great value and
great history" and this is very clearly what all pieces in the collection
have in common.
Begun as a private collection of silver and gold decorated plate and
artefacts, the Gilbert Collection now includes gold snuff boxes, enamel portrait miniatures,
pietre dure and Roman micromosaics and has world renown in all of
these areas.
Many of us may not have a profound knowledge of the decorative arts
nor have acute insight into the goldsmith's craft or know that "pietre
dure" are pictures fashioned from different textures and colours of
stone. No matter, the Gilbert Collection has that great quality of
a good collection well displayed, namely it is informative.
The visitor can not only appreciate the artistry of individual pieces
but have them explained by lucidly written accompanying texts. The
collection also helps visitors place in context the art on display
with the age in which it was created. Wealthy Europeans making the
Grand Tour would commission mosaic inlaid tables with scenes of Venice
to commemorate their visit much as we would buy a postcard today.
Many of the pieces on display could also tell a tale about the political
powers which held sway in
past centuries in Europe when it was prudent for those who could afford
it to give such beautifully crafted gifts to a Medici or Napoleon.
"Sir Arthur Gilbert's gift to the nation is breathtaking"
Snuff taking is now largely a thing of the past but it
has left behind a fine artistic legacy in the highly decorated snuff boxes used by past inhalers
of this aromatic, perfumed tobacco. In the 18th Century,
the great and the good acquired and gave snuff boxes as presents.
Such luminaries as Philip V of Spain, Catherine the Great and Frederick
the Great of Prussia had extensive collections and some of theirs
are among the 220 snuff boxes on display at the Gilbert. It is unlikely
that ashtrays will be as sought after in future!
The Gilbert Collection is beautiful and informative. It is housed
within the vaulted roofed interior of what was formerly the Barge
House of Somerset House and a better location is difficult to imagine.
Perhaps most important of all the individual pieces are exhibited
at exactly the right height and spacing and are perfectly lit.
Sir Arthur Gilbert has given his collection to the Nation and a magnificent
bequest it is. Whether you are an expert in decorative arts or a layman,
you will see something here, a goblet, a Russian church gate, an ancient
gold ewer, which will take your breath away. Guaranteed! |
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| SOMERSET
HOUSE |
Strand
London WC2R 1LN
Tel: 020 7240 4080
Fax: 020 7240 4060 |
Opening
hours
Mon-Sat
10:00am-6:00pm
Sun & Bank Holidays 12noon-6:00pm
Admission
Free except exhibitions
and special events
Gilbert Collection
(incl audio guide) £4.00
Concessions £3.00.
Mon free until 2:00pm
Tube
Covent Garden/ Temple/Embankment
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| THE
GILBERT COLLECTION |
Silver and
gold decorated plates and artefacts now housed at Somerset
House including gold snuff boxes, enamel portrait miniatures,
pietre dure and Roman micromosaics.
Review
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